The Gown

Everyone knows finding the perfect dress is half the battle... once you find "the one," the rest is all downhill from there. This simple guide will help you to find the right gown for your shape and personal style so you can be the belle of the ball. After all, it's your one day to shine bright so you will want to look your absolute best!

Before you actually head to the bridal shop, you may want to get a good idea of what you're looking for. Searching for a gown can be overwhelming and even stressful, especially if the boutique you're in has literally thousands of selections. Not only do you want to have a general idea of what your personal style is, but you also want to know what style looks best on your particular body shape.

Your Body Shape

What type are you?

1. The first thing you will need to do is find a measuring tape and your maid of honor (or you can do it yourself.)

2. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your breasts. Make sure to exhale before measuring... and no cheating!

3. The waist is measured 1 inch above you belly button.

4. Now wrap the tape around the widest part of your hips.

5. If you're like me, then the math is the tricky part!

1 - Banana (Also known as Straight, Rectangular or Ruler)

The waist is at least 75% of the chest or hips, which are virtually the same.
The banana body shape tends to lean with a boyish shape that has the same measurement for the shoulders and the hips with a waist measurement that is close to them. However, they usually have great legs.

2 - Apple (Also known as Cone or Triangle downward)

The waist is at most 75% of the chest, and the chest is at least 110% of the hips.

Although Apple-shaped women are characterized by big busts, they are often described as boyish or athletic because their shoulders are broader than their hips. But they are lucky to have the body type that looks great in almost every style. The waist is average and less defined. They have a smaller and sometimes flat bottom with slimmer legs. Venus De Milo is a classic example of an apple shape.

3 - Pear (Also known as Spoon, Bell or Triangle Upward)

The waist is at least 75% of the chest, and the hips is at least 110% of the chest.

Women who have heavy bottoms and small busts are said to have pear-shaped bodies. Most have a slim torso and rib cage and their waist may be smaller in proportion to their hips. They also have a fuller bottom and legs. Cleopatra was a pear shape.

4 - Hourglass (Triangles opposing, facing in)

The waist is less than 75% of the chest or hips, which are virtually the same.

You have well proportioned shoulders that are in line with your hips. Curvy describes you the best and you have a small to average, defined waistline and an average to full bottom and many of you have great legs. Accentuating the waist is the key to giving the Hourglass it's shape. As many cultures consider this body shape as ideal and most desirable; many celebrities falsely claim hourglass measurements but actually rate closer to a straight figure or pear. In order to be truly considered an Hourglass, your bust and hip measurments must be at least six inches or more than your waist measurement. Marilyn Monroe is probably the most famous example of an hourglass shape.

5 - Round

The waist is at least 110% of the hips.

While there are women who are round-shaped; it is more commonly found among men. The chest, waist and hips have high proportion of fat. Characteristics are full busts, waists and upper backs and often width around the middle leading down to slim legs. This figure type looks best in loose, unstructured designs. Avoid anything that brings attention to the waist.

Now we need to get familiar with wedding gown terminology and styles.

Silhouettes

A-line Silhouette

A-line

The A-line or princess dress has no marked waist and the vertical seams flow from the shoulders down to a flared skirt, creating a "A" shape. If you carry your weight in the middle, this silhouette is a nice choice.

Ball gown

These gowns are normally quite formal, reminiscent of Cinderella. The bodice is fitted with a very full skirt. Ball gowns can be long-sleeved, sleeveless or anywhere in between. The full skirt of a ball gown can hide large hips and thighs.

Empire

Mermaid Silhouette

Empire gowns have a raised waistline that starts right under the bust, flowing to a skirt that skims over the hips then flairs slightly to the floor. This romantic silhouette is flattering to most body types and is particularly flattering to small breasted women. It was a popular style in the early 1800's during the regency fashion era and is a prominent style found in many Jane Austen films.

Mermaid

As the name indicates, the mermaid dress is contoured against the body then the gown flows out beginning around the knees like a mermaid tail. It's a very sexy style! If you confident in your body, a mermaid dress can show off your curves.

Sheath

The sheath or column dress has a slim shape that follows close to the line of the body. The straight design doesn't allow for many body flaws. The long lines of a sheath gown can elongate the look of your body. Therefore this type of dress can work well for short brides.

Length of Skirt

• Street length - Hem falls just past the knee.
• Intermission (or Tea) length - Hem falls between the knees and ankle.
• Ballet length - Hem falls just to the ankles.
• Floor Length - Hem barely touches the floor on all sides.

Sleeves

• 3/4 sleeves - End between the elbow and wrist.
• Bell - Long sleeves, flare out toward the wrist creating a bell shape.
• Cap - Rounded sleeves, just covering shoulders.
• Fitted point - Long, fitted sleeves that come to a point over the hand.
• Juliet - Long, fitted sleeves with puffy shoulders.
• Long sleeves - Extend to the wrist and are normally form-fitting.
• Off-the-shoulder Sleeves - Cover the upper part of the arm but leave the tops of shoulders exposed.
• Poet - Long sleeves, fitted to the elbow then flared.
• Pouf - Short sleeves, gathered to create a puffy look.
• Short sleeves - About the length of T-shirt sleeves.
• Sleeveless - Strapless with no sleeves.
• Spaghetti  - Thin spaghetti straps with no sleeves.

Scoop neckline, sheath silhouette, spaghetti straps,
chapel-length train and English net overlay

Neckline

• Bateau - Close to straight across from the tip of the shoulder. Gives plenty of coverage.
• Halter - Wraps around the back of the neck to create deep armholes. Often also a backless style, which is very sexy.
• High - Covers most of the neck. Creates a formal, somewhat stiff look.
• Jewel - Similar to that of a T-shirt. Creates a bustier look.
• Off-The-Shoulder - As the name indicates, the top of the shoulders are bare. Showcases your collarbone and shoulders.
• Portrait - A very wide scoop from the tip of one shoulder to the tip of the other.
• Scoop - Classic U-shaped neckline. Can be cut low for a sexier look.
• Square - Squared neckline, often associated with empire gowns.
• Strapless - Normally straight across. Not recommended for women with small busts.
• Sweetheart - Shaped like the top half of a heart. Emphasizes the cleavage.
• V-Neck - Dips in the front into a V-shape. Can be very deep.

Bodice

The bodice refers to the portion of the dress between the neckline and skirt.

• Corset - A form fitting bodice with boning and lace-up closures.
• Halter - Sleeveless bodice that wraps around you neck, normally backless.
• Midriff - Fits very closely around the mid-section, accentuating your waist.
• Surplice - Sections of fabric cross wrap in the front or back.
• Tank - Sleeveless with wide armholes like tank top.
• Basque waist - A pointed waist line. 



A basque waist with sweetheart neckline
and cap sleeves



Train

• Sweep - 8" to 12" in length, just a few inches longer than the gown.
• Court - Extends about 3 feet from the waist.
• Chapel - Extends about 4 feet from the waist.
• Cathedral - Extends about 6 to 9 feet from the waist.
• Royal - Extends more than 9 feet from the waist.

Veil

• Birdcage - Falls right below the chin, usually attached to a headpiece.
• Flyaway - Falls to the shoulder.
• Blusher - Worn over your face, about 28" long.
• Elbow - Falls to the elbow or waist.
• Fingertip - Falls to the finger tips or just below the waist.
• Ballet - Falls to the ankles.
• Chapel  - Falls slightly longer than floor length.
• Cathedral - 9 feet or longer.

A Gown For Your Shape

The key is to find a gown that flatters your figure, while downplaying the areas that aren't so perfect. Alfred Angelo believes that the gown should highlight and accentuate a woman's body so she feels her best on her big day. "We want to make all childhood dress up fantasies a reality, no matter what size and shape the bride is," he says. So where does one begin with the plethora of styles available? Read on...

BANANA~ Tall & Thin
Description: You are 5’6” or taller. You have no visible curves. You are slender throughout. Your shoulders and hips are approximately the same width. You have an average sized bust.
Ideal Choices: Sheath; Empire; A-line; Ball Gown
Suggestions: Want the appearance of a fuller chest? Try an empire style dress. Transform your body into a feminine hourglass by adding detail at the waistline (a belt, ribbons, shirring, or darts). Want to add fullness to your slender shape? Try a ball skirt or an A-line dress. A dress with details or patterns can help break your long line and add more definition to your shape. A sheath dress would look great and flow gracefully on your long, slim silhouette. Try a body skimming dress that emphasizes your subtle curves. Opt for one with a slit to reveal your long legs. An open neckline, a cutout back or a plunging V-neck will work well for you.

BANANA~ Petite
Description:You are 5’3”or shorter. You have a small frame. You are trim with subtle curves. You have an average sized bust.
Ideal Choices: Sheath; Empire; A-line
Suggestions: Elongate your tiny frame by showing some leg. Wear a dress with a short hemline and instantly look taller. Explore different types of hemlines for one that suits you the best (handkerchief, asymmetrical, ruffled, hi/low). Create a longer silhouette with a simple column-style sheath dress. If you are short-waisted, choose an empire style or an A-line style that will take the emphasis of the waistline and create an elongated line. Play around with necklines -V-shape, halter or sweetheart are great for you.

BANANA~ Athletic
Description: You are short or tall. You have a large frame. You are straight throughout with no visible curves. You have wide shoulders and toned legs.
Ideal Choices: Empire; Ball gown
Suggestions:Try an empire gown that will add definition and shape to your silhouette. For full definition opt for a ball gown, the full skirt and form-fitting bodice will instantly highlight your waistline and give you a natural feminine shape.

HOURGLASS
Description: You are short or tall. You have a curvy frame. You have a medium to large bust. You have a small waist (smaller than your shoulders and hips). You have naturally curvy hips. You have a rounded bottom.
Ideal Choices: Sheath; A-line; Ball gown
Suggestions: Show off your curvy figure with a form-fitting sheath dress. Be it plain or embellished, this type of dress will accentuate your body in all the right places. A little hipper than desired? Choose an A-line or ball gown, to cover your wider parts and draw attention upward. To achieve this try a strapless bodice ball gown with a full skirt and a cinched waist. Keep eyes above the waist with an embellished neckline.

ROUND
Description: You are short or tall. You are heavy throughout. You have a large frame. You have very noticeable curves. You have a large bust.
Ideal Choices: Empire; A-line; Ball gown
Suggestions: Look for slimming styles that won’t cling to every curve. Try an A-line dress that slims throughout the waist and gently flows around your lower body. Want the same effect but more bottom coverage? Try a ball gown with a corseted waist or a tight-fitting two-piece that will highlight your torso and hide a fuller bottom. Another good option is the empire gown, which will draw more attention to your bust line and flow over everything else below. V, round or sweetheart necklines look best as does thick straps or a halter top.

PEAR
Description: You are short or tall. You are bottom heavy. Your hips, bottom, thighs are larger than your upper body.
Ideal Choices: Empire; A-line; Ball gown
Suggestions: Flatter your best assets (your top half) with dresses that accentuate the bodice and loosely flow over the body. Strapless bodices are the best choice for your body type. Choose either an A-line, empire or ball gown and favor a strapless bustier or a halter with a circular neckline.

APPLE
Description: You are short or tall. You have a heavier mid-section than the rest of your body. You are thick-waisted or you have an undesired tummy.
Ideal Choices: Empire; A-line
Suggestions: Empire gowns look best on this type of figure. The high waist de-emphasizes your mid-section and lengthens your overall silhouette. If you choose to go with an A-line gown, it is ideal that you choose a bodice with boning for a slimming effect.

BROAD SHOULDERS
Description: You are short or tall. You have wide shoulders.
Ideal Choices: Sheath; Empire; A-line, Ball Gown
Suggestions: Dresses that reveal your shoulders are best. Covering your shoulders may make them look bigger. A halter or strapless style with a narrow bodice looks best. It pleasantly exposes your shoulders (you shouldn’t hide them) and slims the midsection, whilst producing an hourglass silhouette.

BIG BUSTED
Description: You are short or tall. You have a C cup or larger.
Ideal Choices: A-Line; Ball gown
Suggestions: If you opt for an A-line or ball gown it is ideal that you choose a corset bodice for added support. A bodice with straps helps keep it in place and gives you extra support. Full coverage V-necks flatter your neckline without showing too much cleavage. Halter gowns are a good option as the halter can be adjusted according to the support you need. A good way to deflect attention from your chest is to wear a dress with details at the hemline.

SMALL BUSTED
Description: You are short or tall. You have an A cup or smaller.
Ideal Choices: Empire; A-Line; Ball gown
Suggestions: A ball gown or A-line looks nice on your figure but if the bodice is strapless it must be tightly fitted for minimal mishaps. A detailed bodice is an ideal way to add shape and definition to your bustline. Details such as ruching, ornate beadwork, ruffles or embroidery will give the appearance of a fuller chest. Empire works well, as it accentuates the chest but works best when the bodice is embellished.

How Do You Know You've Found "The One?"



The gown I designed during theatre class in college.

I came into Melissa's Bridal and Formal Fantasy knowing exactly what dress I wanted. In fact, I had drawn a sketch in college during another redundant tech theatre class of exactly what I had in mind. It would have an off-the-shoulder, sweetheart neckline with a ruched bust and a laced corset bodice with a split front skirt like Ariel's pink dinner gown from "The Little Mermaid." It would have a basque waist and a slightly dropped A-line silhouette with a beautifully beaded chapel train.

However, once I got to the store and showed Melissa my drawing, she said that she didn't have anything like it. In fact, she only carried one off-the-shoulder dress in the whole store and it was, in my opinion, hideous. I was very disheartened but I tried on the three dresses that she reccommended that were the closest to what I had in mind.

The third dress was breath-taking. I literally sucked in a huge gasp and couldn't believe how gorgeous it was. Melissa turned off the lights and it glittered and glimmered in the lights. I was awed. After many other trips to several different shops, nothing else compared to that dress and nothing else came even remotely close to the drawing.

Casablanca- Spring 2007

I discovered this dress from the spring line of 2007 by Casablanca and came very close to ordering it while dress shopping with my mother-in-law in Ohio. The only reason I didn't is because I wanted to see it on me first before I purchased it. What I liked about it was that it had an off-the-shoulder, sweetheart neckline with a basque waist and beautiful embroidery on the bodice. It also had a lovely back with a Victorian-style bustle.

Then I discovered Etsy, a place where talented DIYers were all in one place selling their crafts. (I later ended up joining them, here is my website.) I soon realized that there were several very experienced seamstresses who could look at my drawing and produce my dream dress in my size for a fraction of the cost that a store bought dress costs. I really thought about it hard. But that dress in Melissa's kept coming back to me. In every dream at night where I walked down the aisle and said "I do" to Mathew, I was wearing the dress at Melissa's. I still wasn't convinced though. I thought that maybe MY dress was still somewhere out there waiting for me to find it. My mom and I drove a long way to get to a place called "The Bridal Mall" where they had the biggest selection I've ever seen.

Moonlight #H9593 ballgown, sweetheart, basque

It was there that I became unbelieveably close to buying this gown by Moonlight bridal because the sales lady was extremely pushy and definitely good at selling dresses. I finally realized right before I signed the contract that I definitely didn't want it... At that moment, I was 100% confidant that I wanted the Private Label by G that I tried on at Melissa's. The confidence was a similar feeling to how I "just knew" that Mathew and I were soulmates. (Besides, the customer service at Melissa's made me feel like a friend and they never cohersed you into buying something that you didn't really want. I wanted to bring my business there.)

Sometimes when a bride tries on "the one" it is a magical, emotional, love-at-first sight moment when she "just knows." Other times, like my experience, it takes a journey of trying on many different styles and designers to figure out what you knew in your heart all along.


Our Wedding Day

Your bridal gown may be one of your biggest wedding purchases. Therefore, you should take your time and make sure you are totally satisfied before making your final choice.

Bring your sister, mother or girlfriends with you while shopping for your wedding dress. They'll be able to help you get in and out of the gowns (some gowns are very heavy!) They can also tell you when a dress looks great or if it should go back on the rack. And they'll be there with you when you try on "the one," and cry with you when it's better than you ever imagined.

***

Finding a gown can be emotionally charged, so I absolutely advise brides to keep an open mind when shopping for their gown. Most women have their "dream dress" since they were five years old in mind. My advice is that you should try on several other silhouettes than your favorite. Trying on other styles will help you to see what is most flattering on your body type. A dress that looks great on model in a magazine may not necessarily look as great on you. But don't despair! Whether you are short, tall, thin or curvy, you can still be a beautiful bride. No matter what your shape, this is YOUR day, so embrace the beauty that you are!